Friday 5th February – Chambal River to Delhi

After spending a comfortable night at the Safari Lodge in Chambal for todays river cruise we were up extra early today. Last night Lokesh explained that the target species on the River Cruise was no longer present, it appears the Indian Skimmer had moved. Two of the local guides had spent a week scouring the river banks on motor bikes and had found the birds about an hour upstream from our location and we were given the option of an early start which we all agreed with.

Crested Bunting

We were driving before the sunrise and it took more than an hour before we arrived at a small village which looked like it was out of the Middle Ages. We still had a walk of more than two miles to access the river bank which was reached by following a dried up stream bed which had gouged its way through the soft earth. It was an interesting walk with Camels carrying raw materials from the river and an elderly gentleman on his morning constitutional who was not expecting to be interrupted. I’ve never seen anyone pull up their strides quite so quickly!

Indian Skimmer

Black-bellied Tern

On reaching the river there was a surprising lack of water, it was also foggy, the sun was out and it was slowly starting to burn away the mist. Through the gloom we could hear the birds calling, it was really quite magical. Eventually the fog lifted and the Indian Skimmers were seen flying to and fro but unfortunately they relocated to a sand bar on the other far side. We saw some other good birds here with Black-bellied Tern, Pallas’s Gull and River Lapwing.

We then made our way back to the minibus were we enjoyed a relaxing River Cruise on a rather small boat. The birds were a little overshadowed by the strange looking Gharial and Marsh Mugger Crocodiles. We were soon heading back to the Safari Camp for lunch. We had a quick bird around the grounds seeing amongst other species Brown Hawk Owl. We now had a long eight hour drive to Delhi ahead of us.

Gharial

River Lapwing

The drive went well considering the Indian Government is upgrading the road between Agra and Delhi, what good it will do remains to be seen. In one village a Tractor and trailer came through driven by a young boy of about ten years old, I don’t know how he reached the pedals! Another tractor was so overloaded its front wheels were up in the air above the drivers head! Only in India!!!

Brown Hawk Owl

We made good progress until we reach the outskirts of Delhi where it was complete gridlock. We were sitting in traffic when I noticed the car alongside containing about eight youths out for a good time were trying to attract my attention. The lad sharing the front passenger seat started to make obscene gestures towards me, I tried to ignore him but he wasn’t giving up. His teeth were all over the place “like a horse laughing through a letter box” and I don’t know what he was trying to communicate. I assume the gesture meant: (a) what he would be doing tonight; (b) what he thought I would be doing tonight or the least popular outcome (c) what he wanted to do to me!

I eventually got a bit fed up and the next time we made eye contact I mouthed to him “Can’t help you mate, I’m not a Dentist”. Whether he understood or not I could’t say!

We eventually arrived at our hotel a little before 11pm and after filling in more forms Lokesh informed us we would have to be up at 5.30am the next morning as we had a long drive ahead of us!!!!!! It was a comfortable bed for all the time I was in it. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

4th February – Bharatpur to Agra and the Taj Mahal

This morning we made another attempt for Painted Snipe, after last nights experience we were hoping for a more pleasing venue. Firstly though we visited farmland that lay to the east of Bharatpur. Part of it had been planned out for housing with the layout of the roads already set out. When in conversation we expressed our doubts about the loss of habitat, Lokesh who was a resident of Bharatpur said that he had a plot for his house on the site!

Large Grey Babbler

The birding was good, different to what we had been used to and we saw a few familiar species including Tawny Pipit, Crested Lark plus a few Stonechats. As we made our way towards the road we came across a large house with a high wall around it, it looked a cracking house and garden, we were rather surprised when Lokesh announced that it was his house and he then invited us to tea/coffee and to meet his family. We met his wife, mother and grandmother plus his daughter “Cuckoo” a young child of about four years old.

We then took a short drive to the local village to search again for Painted Snipe, it was like going back in time four centuries with the population living at close quarters with their animals. There was rubbish everywhere which was a real shame and the waste products poured down drains emptying into what was once a village pond. This is what Painted Snipe like apparently – it wasn’t as bad as last night and we did see several Painted Snipe!

Yellow-wattled Lapwing

We returned to the hotel for lunch, then drove to Agra which is home to the Taj Mahal. Now if the Taj Mahal was impressive the same cannot be said for Agra, if God was going the give the earth an Enema this is where the tube would go. We left the coach and ran the gauntlet of the street traders who where all over us. But heads down we forged ahead, and entered the complex that contained the Taj Mahal. I won’t explain the layout (check on the internet) but the entrance gate and accompanying courtyard was impressive enough, but walking through the gate to view the Taj itself was something else.

Our group not quite dressed for the occasion

Joy and I on the Princess Diana seat!

Cameras were working overtime and we all took our turn on the “Princess Diana” seat to have our photograph taken. Two hours later we were running the gauntlet again of the traders, I was impressive, managing to give them a body swerve to the right, but this left Joy and June in the thick of it and I was left with a feeling of guilt for abandoning them, yeh right!

Then we visited a shop that the guide recommended, now I’m not one for shopping and I would say the rest of the group were of similar ilk. It was a little embarrassing as no one intended to buy anything, they offered us drinks and assured us that we were under no obligation to buy anything, they were really friendly and I felt a little guilty, I thought we were about to leave when they announced that they had some live music for us and three more rooms to visit!!!!!

The music was good, Sitar and drums, it was a largish room and we were all sat on the back row, the Sitar player who was accomplish, asked if anyone want to have a go on the Sitar “Nope” came the reply, “Anyone want to sing” said the Sitar man, “Nope” came a unified response. We all got up to go and he quickly announced that he was going to sing a Bollywood love song! We all sat down just as quickly, when that was finished he didn’t get a chance for an encore we were on our way. I didn’t feel too bad as Joy and June had bought some presents. I can only apologise for my behaviour I was there to bird after all, it was a concession as far as I was concerned visiting the Taj Mahal!

The Taj Mahal

3rd February – Bharatpur

After a good nights sleep we made the short trip to the entrance to Bhartpur. The layout was interesting with a long straight roadway running for about three miles to a T-junction. The first mile or so had scrub on either side and was good for birding. We reached a crossroads and carried on where the landscape changed with water on our left and marsh and wet grassland on our right.

Indian Roller

Large Grey Babbler

Indian Spotted Duck

At the first crossroad we saw a Siberian Rubythroat which even though I had seen one in the UK still set the pulses racing. Barred Buttonquail for me was the standout species, being a family of birds that I haven’t seen much of.

There variety of species was special and by the end of the day we logged nearly 120 in total. Special species: in no particular order were Black-necked Stork, White-eared Bulbul, Indian Roller, Brahminy Starling, Sarus Crane, Spotted and Collared Owlets and the impressive Dusky Eagle Owl and a self found Orphean Warbler.

As it was getting on we were given a Rickshaw ride back to the entrance, now I’m big but the little fella that was taking Mike and Jack was on a respirator by the time we got to the entrance.

We boarded the coach and Lokesh announced he knew a site for Painted Snipe and that we still had enough daylight left. We travelled through the backstreets of Bharatpur arriving at a sort of man made watercourse, now though, it was little more than a open sewer, I can’t describe it adequately but you could taste it – not pleasant. However, it was good, very good for waders and we saw several species including Marsh Sandpiper, but alas no Painted Snipe.

Painted Stork

White-throated Kingfisher

Grey-breasted Prinia

Brahminy Starling

1 & 2nd February – Ranthamphur

An early start saw us meet the truck from Ranthambhore which was waiting for us in the darkness outside the compound of the hotel. With a chill in the air we made our way to the park entrance. As we waiting for the paperwork to be completed the sense of excitement was tangible.

Indian Scops Owl

As we made our way into the park we passed through a 700 year old fortified entrance which blocked the pass we were travelling along. Then, ahead of us the fortress on the top of the hill came into view, it was impressive. The trees overhead were full of roosting Indian Peafowl and as bird activity got underway we were greeted with bird after bird.

Painted Scrubfowl was an impressive bird and the number of Rufous Treepies was staggering. The bird were really coming thick and fast. There are several trails through the Reserve and each truck is allocated a route at random. Our route had some stunning scenery and we heard the alarm calls of Spotted Deer a sure sign that there was probably a tiger around, but we didn’t see one. We stopped at a rest area where Rufous Treepies and Jungle Babblers awaited our arrival, it was ridiculous there were birds all over us, eating out of our hands and off our heads!

Lokesh, complete with Rufous Treepie

Before long the Safari was over but we were due another trip in the afternoon, plus early the next day. The area outside the hotel was semi-desert with scattered bushes so we spent the pre-lunch hours exploring this area between the hotel and the road.  It looked great for Larks and Pipits and so it proved with Indian Bushlark, Greater Short-toed and Ashy-headed Sparrow-lark. We also had Isabelle Wheatear, Long-billed Pipit and Painted Sandgrouse plus a rather showy Bay-backed Shrike.

Bay-backed Shrike

Painted Spurfowl

The male Tiger D72.

Soon it was time to go return to Ranthamphur, this time on another of the routes. At a waterhole we heard alarm calls of deer then a tiger roar! There were three other vehicles and we were all jostling to find the best position. Suddenly the beast appeared and the Tiger remained on view for the next ten minutes as it made its way through the vegetation across a stream and slowly out of view. We were all really excited – birds didn’t seem to matter quite so much now.

White-breasted Waterhen

The next morning we were off again, this time on a route that was supposedly the best for Tiger, but it wasn’t to be. Apparently the last group had failed to see Tiger and although there is a good chance it is by no means guaranteed. However, this trail was good for birds with a large lake in the centre and we added a few species to the holiday list. After our evening meal we visited an area not too far away where dead animal carcasses are dumped where we saw a Striped Hyena.

After lunch we packed, boarded the minibus and headed north towards Baratphur arriving in the early evening. We birded on the way and we were lucky enough to catch up with one of the trips target species Indian Courser, there saw two, although they were a little distant we got reasonable views.

Sunday 31st January – Delhi to Ranthambhore

After a good nights sleep at 5.30am we were introduced to the rest of the group who had arrived overnight, Jack, from Liverpool and Leonard and Rosita from Sweden. They looked in the same kind of state that we were in yesterday!

We drove through the traffic to the outskirts of Delhi an area called Bazai Village, which held a wetland and an area of reed beds, I would be guessing as to how large it was as it was foggy, that combined with the smog made for poor viewing conditions. However, there were no shortage of birds, Grey Francolin was first up, poor views but we were to see many more. Then a pucker Bar-headed Goose followed by a Rosy Pipit. There were a lot of waders and waterfowl but they didn’t hold that much interest for me as most were familiar British and European birds.

Of the waders White-tailed Lapwing was most impressive as were the 100’s of Purple Swamphens. The reed beds held a few warblers including Moustached, Paddyfield and Clamorous Reed Warblers. We saw a few Bluethroat and an Isabeline Shrike as well. On the way back to the van we got good views of another new species Yellow-bellied Prinia.

We returned to the hotel in time for lunch before making our way once more through the Delhi traffic heading for the railway station for a six hour train journey south to Ranthambhore where we arrived just as darkness fell, but the journey had been rather uneventful as had the scenery.

We arrived again at another pleasant hotel just in time for our evening meal. Our alarms were set for another early start and a jeep Safari through the Ranthambhore National Park – I couldn’t wait.

India – Saturday 30th January

My wife Joy, her twin sister June, The Captain and I booked this holiday with India Nature well over a year ago, the anticipation had been building for some months and the time had finally arrived. Apart from the birds there was a possibility of Tiger and in the right weather conditions, views of the Himalayas the highest mountain range in the world.

Our direct overnight flight from Birmingham arrived in New Delhi at around 9.30am the flight taking approximately nine hours. Sleep was nearly impossible with several children participating in synchronised wailing for the whole of the flight. We were royally entertained by the antics of the other passengers putting their hand luggage into the overhead lockers. I had to stop myself bursting out laughing on a number of occasions.

We were nearly ready to take off when the last passengers an Indian gentleman, wife and two children turned up with four Sports Direct carrier bags bursting with clothes, despite the overhead lockers being full he was making sure his baggage fitted. The first bag when in, don’t know how, there must have been a bulge on the outside of the plane. The second, saw most of the clothes coming out and showering the passengers below in items of clothing. He then worked his way up the plane before arriving by our seats with his last bag, he somehow he managed to force it into the locker which was already full. Fortunately I didn’t end up with a pair of his skidders on my head – I considered myself lucky.

When we finally got through the numerous checks, plus fingerprinting, mug shots and endless form filling We were to be picked up by India Nature at the airport, inside the terminal there were several reps, but not ours. I went outside to find a scrum of reps all waving placards, I walked along the line not seeing the India Nature sign on my first pass, having used them before I wasn’t worried. I was in full Safari gear so I was not surprised to hear a voice call out “Mrs Forbez” I spun round to be greeted by a smiling face who followed up my acknowledgement with the line “I thought it was you, you look like a lonely birder!” Whatever did he mean, I’m not lonely!

I fetched the others and we made our way to the vehicle. The temperature was pleasant, not too hot (little did we know). The pollution in the city was a bit of a surprise with a thick smog hanging in the air. We drove to our hotel through the Delhi traffic, which is an experience in itself. No rules apply, drive on either side of the road – no problem, Islands – don’t make me laugh. Its a free for all, no quarter given, no quarter taken. I kid you not over the following two weeks we saw at least 12 accidents, some just people being knocked of their bikes up to full scape pile-ups. The front seat of our mini-bus become nicknamed the “Valium Chair!”

The hotel was a good standard but we were all very tired. The rooms were comfortable and we soon all fell asleep. I was awakened by an internal call informing me that our guide Lokesh was waiting for me in reception. Bleary eyed I made my way to reception, where Lokesh must have wondered what he was going to be guiding for the next couple of weeks. I struggled to hear what he was saying but picked up that it was a 5.30am start in the morning.  I arrived back at the room The Captain was up and ready to eat, (another recurring theme).

We had lunch and decided that we would entertain ourselves by birding around the hotel gardens. We met one of the other tour participants Mike Potts a Geordie and Newcastle fan who was in the same age  bracket as the rest of us. We had a wander around the garden seeing a few species and adding my first tick in the form of a Yellow-footed Green Pigeon.

The five of us then enjoyed a pleasant evening meal and retired to bed, the other members of the group were flying in overnight and we wouldn’t meet them until the next morning. So with the alarm set for 5.30am a welcome sleep awaited us. “Then the snoring started”.

Wednesday 13th January

In the morning I walked around Shustoke, the Great Northern Diver was still present but surprisingly elusive, again there was no sign of the Red-crested Pochard. The wildfowl numbers were pretty static with the same two Wigeon on the small pool still.

I walked down the river where there were good numbers of Siskin and Goldfinch in the riverside larch. There were at least half a dozen Lesser Redpoll amongst them. I checked out my field near the Sheep paddocks but there were only a few Bunting with numbers well down on last years totals.

My search for Woodcock took me off the paths and I was surprised to find in some of the more sheltered areas that some of the Hawthorn were in leaf! It was certainly cooler today and I can’t help but think these plants will get caught out with a cold snap.

The afternoon saw me making another attempt at the Ladywalk Bittern. It seems if I go in the morning the bird shows in the afternoon, if I go in the afternoon it shows in the morning. So I found myself heading straight to Riverwalk hide determined not to leave until I had connected. Signs weren’t good the bird had been seen briefly twice earlier, and the hide was full of disappointed punters, bemoaning their luck. After about 90 minutes and a bit of banter, I was being painted as the villain of the peace! Twice I heard “It’s his fifth trip – its down to him”.

A late arrival announced that birds usually showed just as he tucked into his sandwiches! After two hours continually scanning the reeds I was getting a little bored. I looked at my watch 3.30pm, it was looking like another blank. I heard the sandwich box opening and started another sweep, I detected a bit of moment in the left hand channel, straining my eyes I concentrated on the spot and then there was another movement and the Bittern walked into view I shouted out but the bird carried on walking into the dense cover. All I could hear was the guy next to me’s camera shutter clicking away and someone choking on a sandwich! At that point another couple came into the hide literally 30 seconds too late! I continued to scan the area and again picked up moment as the bird rearranged its feathers and with that it started to walk back along the entrance to the channel, it proceeded to jump across the gap and walk straight into the main reed bed. All in all it was on show for less than 30 seconds but I left the hide a happy and relieved man. No doubt I will now see Bittern several times and will be tripping over them – I wish!

One final note in the car park at Ladywalk there were two Brown Rats feeding on the bird table, I have an annual battle each Autumn with rats in my garden so far I’m 14 - 0 up. But this year I’m only just on top, they are persistent little buggers. Anyway, I digress I walked right up to these two and was that close that I peered through the cage at them, and they took no notice of me! I could have touched them if I had chose too. If any of the people that run the Reserve want the problem solving I have the experience and the firepower, you know who to call!