10th March – Udawalawe NP

We were picked up early – yet again. What followed was a really good mornings birding with a lot of birds seen, before long we had to return to the hotel to pack for the next stage of the journey.

Of more importance to me was that I had my first new specie of the trip with not one but six Marshall's Iora.

Asian Elephant 

Marshall's Iora

Chesthut-headed Bee-eater

After our return we went in search of White-naped Woodpecker a species that I had missed on my previous visit. We parked up in someones garden and sat down to wait at the roost site. I set up the scope and waited, it soon became apparent that there was a beak sticking out of the hole! There was also a Jungle Barred Owlet in the garden which we took in turns to look at. It was whilst Joy was off enjoying this bird that the Woodpecker put in an appearance, then it promptly disappeared. It was at least 20 minutes, just before we had to leave both birds reappeared. That left us time to get back in time to watch 1000s of fruit bats leaving the roost near the hotel. It was soon the end of a great day with more importantly the Woodpecker providing me with my second and last tick of the holiday.

White-naped Woodpecker

Barred Jungle Owlet

White-naped Woodpecker

Chinese Fast Food – achoo

Monday 9th March

We started off with a pre breakfast visit to the entrance to Sinharaja Forest Reserve mainly to have another look at Sri Lankan Blue Magpie which had proved rather elusive on our walks, the only ones we had seen were in the same place on our first day at Sinharaja. Despite a coach load of locals who all wanted to sit by the feeders we managed to see a couple plus a Sri Lankan Grey Hornbill. Unfortunately as it was quite early the light was not good enough for photography.

Sri Lankan Grey Hornbill

Sri Lankan Blue Magpie

Sinharaja Entrance

Outside the Blue Magpie Lodge

Soon we were off with a trip to an Elephant relocation centre on the way to our next destination. The others enjoyed the parade of Elephants while Saman and I slipped away, as he had an Indian Scops Owl to show me.

Indian Scops Owl

This time a little more cryptic

We arrived at our hotel which was luxurious, Saman want to take us birding later, but as he only lived a few miles away I told him not to bother and just go home for the evening, he was very reluctant but I insisted, there was a nice pool and we all needed a break. There was an large area of scrub and a lake within walking distance so I told him if I felt the need to go birding I would enjoy identifying birds on my own for an hour. At the time I had no intention of birding, but later in the afternoon Andy said he fancied going for a walk. We walked from the hotel seeing a good variety of waterbirds before heading into the scrubby area for an hour. We did really well seeing a good variety of birds in a short period including Barred Buttonquail which was a real bonus.

Sunday 8th March

At breakfast this morning we were joined a Cinnamon Bittern in the dinning area, it eventually flew off, but was remarkable small when seen out of its preferred habitat.

We had another trip into the rainforest with the Jeep picking us up early. It was a very similar day to yesterday, but we saw more of the endemics such as Red-faced Malkoha and Ashy-headed Laughingthrush really well. In a way it was better and yesterday, a little more relaxed.

Black-capped Bulbul

After lunch the resident guide who had been unsuccessful during the morning in trying to locate Serendib Scops Owl went to try another roost site whilst we searched again for Scaly Thrush. I tried as best as I could to explain to Saman that the Thrush didn’t matter as I had seen one before, but his profession pride wouldn’t allow such a relaxed approach!

Serendib Scops Owl

Our guide reappeared sporting a broad grin and announced he had located an Owl. What followed was hard at the time but magical in retrospect. We had to walk through thick cover following a faint path through the jungle, clambering through the underground, up and down muddy banks until we arrived at the roost site. It was that cramped for space that we could only view the bird one at a time. Everyone seemed really chuffed to eventually see it.

My second Serendib Scops Owl

We had an enjoyable rest of the day and after we arrived back at the Blue Magpie Saman asked me if I would like to see another Serendib Scops Owl and Green-billed Coucal – ? For whatever reason none of the other wanted to join me. I think tiredness and a relief that there were no more Leeches for the rest of the holiday had lulled them in to a false sense of security – they were staying put!

We drove a couple of miles and then we started to make our way up a sleep slope of around 250 yards, then there was the quarry roosting about four foot of the ground oblivious to our presence. We then visited an area quite close to the Blue Magpie where the impressive Green-billed Coucal put on a great performance.

Saturday 7th March

Sinaraja Rainforest

We were up early for breakfast then met the Jeep that was to take us uphill to where we would enjoy a days birding. At the entrance we had to wait for the office to open to obtain tickets, but whilst we waited a couple of Blue Magpie visited the feeders and there was an Indian Blue Robin showing really well.

Sri Lankan Junglefowl

Soon we were making our way uphill to the entrance proper. We stopped half way up where a local had created a screen from which Sri Lanka Junglefowl and hopefully Sri Lanka Scrubfowl fed. We gave it an hour and had good views of Junglefowl and Emerald Dove but we had to leave.
Gemma notice that the back of Joys shirt had blood coming through, on pulling up her shirt a bloated leech dropped out. There was a little mild panic, but I could not see where the leech had bitten her as there was no obvious wound. More worrying we couldn't find the leech! Five minutes later Andy noticed Joy had blood coming through the front of her shirt! Joy by this time was a little distressed and Gemma was one or two notches higher than that. Saman stopped the vehicle at a restaurant of sorts and managed to get access to a room where Gemma took over and took Joy inside for a closer examination. Fortunately they were both Leech free, it transpired that the Leech had its fill around the front and in trying to get away had gotten trapped between joy and the back rest, this forced some blood out which accounted for the blood on her back!

Sri Lankan Frogmouth

However we enjoyed a good mornings birding along the track, with great views of Sri Lankan Frogmouth, but it was hot and certain members of the group who shall remain nameless were more concerned with Leeches than birds! We saw several endemics but struggled with Sri Lankan Scaly Thrush. We clambered through thick vegetation in search of them and I had to leave my scope, so I hung my hat on the scope as it was getting in the way. Over the next hour we managed to miss the birds, although at one point they flew past us, we heard them and got the briefest of views.  I could tell the others were tired, so we retired to the rest area, I picked up my scope and went to replace my hat I noticed a leech inside it!

Water Monitor

Green Pit Viper

Black-naped Monarch

The rest of the day was spent birding back along the trail, later than afternoon Saman and I went birding on our own, we had a walk along the road with the best bird a Crested Serpent Eagle just outside of the Blue Magpie.

Crested Serpent Eagle

Sri Lankan Green Pigeon

By this time we had been on the go solid for three days and we were all knackered. I was literally falling asleep eating dinner, so as soon as we got to the room I was away. Within five minutes Joy woke me up to remove a large beetle from the bathroom. I got a glass and deposited the thing outside. I had no sooner dropped off again than Andy appeared knocking on the door of the room. Saman he said had found a Forest Eagle Owl and told me to fetch you. With that we quickly dressed and were soon watching this majestic creature whilst it sat on top of one of the largest trees in the garden. Unfortunately it had its back to us, but still it was a big boy, I fetched my scope and a steady stream of people took a turn at looking at the bird. Saman was in his element so we left him and my scope and went to bed again. Ten minutes later the door was knocked again, quick come its turned around. We got dressed again but by the time we got there it had flown off! I slept like a log.

Friday 6th March

We were up early as is always the case for a pre breakfast birding session. This involved birding in the grounds of the local village. We crossed the river via a rather dodgy bridge that I remember from last time, although I was concentrating on where I was walking Saman pointed out a couple of Asian Openbill sat in a tree downstream – was I bothered!

Andy and Gemma on the bridge

The Bridge

After crossing the river we stopped in a clearing and saw a good variety of birds including the impressive Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, we saw numerous other birds. Eventually we carried on birding as we went. I had taken my scope, but being rather tired, not to mention advance years, I was regretting taking it. Saman asked if we would like to see an Indian Pitta, "Yes Please" I've seen them before, but they are notorious skulkers, so the chance of a good view appealed.

Saman spoke to a local man whose house was rather basic and we were invited in to what passed as a back garden, but was little more than a clearing in the jungle. As we stood there the bird was calling and showed briefly, before getting closer in response to a play back, I could see the bird in deepish cover at about 40 yards distance. Saman offered to fetch my scope which I had left at the front of the house. He was so helpful, that, although I thought there would be no chance of any photographs I felt I would disappoint him if I said no.

He dually arrived with my scope which I set up and took a couple of shots which picked up part of the bird but not a lot else. Then Saman played the call again and lo and behold the bird flew in no more than 10 yards away and sat there looking at us. It really was amazing views, plus it stayed there and allowed me to photograph it. My scope had my camera and four different phones on it during the next ten minutes!

India Pitta

Saman later approached me to get my thoughts on tipping and whether we wanted to tip the hotel staff and others. I explained that whilst I had no problem tipping I would be happier if I gave him money and asked him how much it would cost to cover everything. We agreed a figure with the proviso that he came back to me if it ran out. He explained that he liked to spread the money out, giving everyone a stake and a financial interest in the bird. I hadn't realised that he had tipped the guy who's garden we had been watching the Pitta. I suppose if he gets a bung for every group he's happy and has an interest in the bird.

Tickell’s Flycatcher

After breakfast we caught a ferry across the river to visit the Kitagula Forest Reserve. What followed was a pleasant hours birding although we failed to see the target species Serendib Scops Owl, Saman went off in search but returned half an hour later having failed to locate one. He explained that other guides under pressure from "'togs" had gardened around the sites removing vegetation to get better photographs and the birds where now much harder to locate. We saw several good species including Malabar Trogan.

Malabar Trogan

We returned to the Hotel for lunch and departure, then followed a long drive to what was to be the highlight of the trip The Blue Magpie lodge. It was a long drive and we arrived just after dark. I had explained to Andy and Gemma that the Blue Magpie was a little basic, but since my last visit it has been upgraded and is much better with all rooms now having Air Conditioning. The dining area has been expanded and the food was to the usual standard – good but basic.

Sri Lanka - Day 1

THURSDAY – MARCH 5th

It was with a mixture of surprise and excitement when my youngest son approached me about participating  in a Wildlife Holiday with Joy and I, plus his partner Gemma. Since adolescence his interest in birds has been minimal, so I was a little concerned he may get bored if it was largely a birding holiday. We had quite a debate before deciding on Sri Lanka, mainly as it provided the opportunity for a Safari like break with a good variety of mammals, mixed with some birding.

Joy and I visited Sri Lanka in 2014 having a great time and seeing all the endemics, we didn’t do quite so well with mammals missing out on Leopard. As we were limited to ten days we decided that we would omit traveling to Horton Plains and Kandy. Not only would it cut down on the travelling but would give us more time in the National Parks.

We partook an afternoon drive to Heathrow to catch our 8.40pm flight to Colombo, everything went like clockwork (it usually does when Joy organises things). The flight was 10 hours and none of us slept much so we arrived a little dishevelled. Once we cleared customs we met our guide Saman Gamage, who at 6ft was tall for a Sri Lankan. He was enthusiastic and keen to get started, as we waited for the mini bus he pointed out our first birds with Oriental Magpie Robin and House Crow.

Soon we were packed and on our way, mercifully the bus was equipped with very effective Air Conditioning. Our first destination was the Plantation Hotel, Kitulgala – a three hour drive. Before long we were being shown to our rooms where we showered and rested before we met at 5.00pm for a little birding.

We drove all of 200 yards before we disembarked and Saman led us down a lane towards the river. We saw Sri Lanka Green Pigeon, Green Imperial Pigeon plus Spot-winged Thrush and a host of other species. The target for the evening was the endemic Chestnut-backed Owlet and as dusk approached we could hear one calling from thick cover. Saman and I saw it briefly but darkness was falling quickly. We met another couple with their guide but the Owl was playing hard to get. It was nearly dark when we returned to the vehicle and we were ready to board when some frantic waving had us running back to rejoin the search. There in a tree silhouetted against the moonlight was the Owl calling his head off, not great views but I had seen the bird previously.

It was then back to the Hotel for dinner and an early night.

The week

It has been very quiet this week with only the addition of a pair of Goldeneye the only highlight. A small group of seven Pochard were observed by they are far later than is usual, with the odd bird usually returning by late September.

Five Siskin were seen but that was about it. Today Saturday a walk around produced a group of 125 Canada Geese and an impressive 13 Greylag.